I have made this guide as a one page, without any additional links on it, in order to make it easy for you to print it out. After all, you are buying or upgrading a computer, so you might not have the Internet handy while working on your computer.

You will also find a lot of useful information regarding installation on your motherboard handbook. You will have to address this handbook in order to setup several things. I will not explain that in this guide, as it will be explained in details in the handbook that you will get inside your motherboard package. THe most common things that you will have to refer to is how to setup jumpers, and to setup BIOS features.

1. CPU INSTALLATION

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The CPU socket. Modern socket motherboards use Zero Insertion Force (ZIF) sockets, which have a lever on one side that locks the CPU in place. The lever's on the front of the socket in this picture. Note also the raised side of the socket, with the cam-operated locking mechanism in it.

Unclip and raise the lever, and you unlock the socket...

and can drop the CPU in. Modern socket CPUs can only be installed in one orientation; they're "keyed" by missing pins in the corners.

Push the lever back down until it clicks into place, and the CPU will be locked in. Time to attach the cooler.

If you've got a cooler with no thermal transfer pad or pre-applied goop on the bottom, you'll need to put a thin layer of "heatsink grease" on the top of the CPU now. If you're not overclocking - winding your CPU up beyond stock speed - the amount of grease doesn't matter tremendously. Even if you overdo it badly, all you'll do is make a sticky mess on top of the CPU under the cooler. And you'll still get better thermal transfer than a stick-on pad manages.

The Cooler Master cooler has a pre-applied square of chewing-gum-like thermal compound on the bottom, covered with a peel-off protective sheet. This stuff displaces well under pressure, like grease, but doesn't require any user fiddling. Then again, if you want to re-use the cooler, you should scrape off the compound and replace it with ordinary grease, because you'll never line the cooler up quite the same way twice.

Here's a Cooler Master heatsink that's been on a processor already - you can see where the thermal compound's been pushed out by the pressure.

Once you've sorted out the thermal compound situation, it's time to hook on the cooler.

Cooler clips usually have one end with no way to push it down, and another end with some sort of thumb-pad or plier-grip-tab or something. The end you can't push on is the one you hook on first.

Note the rebate under the cooler, that matches the taller hinge portion of the socket. Try to put the cooler on the CPU in any other orientation and it'll mis-fit in ways which you will probably find unamusing.

The other end of the Cooler Master clip. It's made to neatly receive a flathead screwdriver blade, saving you from putting a dent in your thumb and a spike in your blood pressure graph by jamming the clip on without a tool.

With a screwdriver, it's easy to push the clip-end down to engage the hook on the side of the socket.

Presto, one clipped-on cooler.

Once the cooler's clipped on, remember to plug in the CPU fan. If you don't, you'll have a computer that runs great for a few minutes, then crashes over and over and over.

You are done.

2. MEMORY INSTALLATION

The instructions on this page provide general installation and handling information for 184-Pin DDR memory modules. These instructions are intended to be used in conjunction with your model specific owner's manual. Note: Before touching electronic components, make sure you are properly grounded. By wearing a wrist strap (or using some other type of static control device), you can prevent static electricity stored on your body or clothing from damaging your installation. Anti-static straps are available for purchase from our Web site, alternatively please contact our sales department. The first thing to do is make sure the computer is shut down.   Note that it may seem sensible to unplug the computer before installing the RAM, but we don't recommend it. Keeping the machine plugged in will ground it, and this is important because that way any static electricity built up in your body will be discharged before handling the RAM chips. You can do this by touching any metal part of the case. Frying a chip with static electricity is a rare occurrence, but still possible.   Remove the computer's cover following the instructions in the model-specific owner's manual.   Locate the memory expansion sockets on the computer's motherboard. If all the sockets are full, remove smaller capacity modules to allow room for higher capacity modules.   Once you've discharged your static electricity, pick up the memory chip by its top or sides. Don't touch the silver or gold contacts at the bottom, because even a little oil from your finger can eventually interfere with the connection. Regardless of the type of memory you have, it will only go into the empty memory slot one way, so look at the notches in the contacts and line them up so the partitions in the RAM sockets fit in the grooves.   Insert the module into an available expansion socket. Press the module into position, making certain the module is completely seated in the socket. The ejector tabs at each end of the socket will automatically snap into the locked position. Repeat this procedure for any additional modules you are installing. The ejector tabs shown in the illustration are used to remove a module. By pushing outward on the ejector tabs, the module will pop-up from the socket and it can then be removed.   For most installations, DDR modules can be installed in any available expansion slot. Other installations may require the memory to be installed in a particular sequence based on the modules capacity. Check your owner's manual to determine the correct installation sequence for your configuration.   Turn on the computer and follow the instructions in your computer owner's manual that describe the steps necessary to allow your computer to recognise the newly installed memory. (Most computers will automatically recognize the additional memory installed).

3. HARD DRIVE INSTALLATION

Notes: Before you install the new Hard Drive (HD) there are a few facts that need to be known. First of all, when installing two hard drives or any two IDE devices on the same IDE Channel (controller) you must reset the jumper settings on both drivers. Set one to Master and the other to Slave. Only two IDE devices will work per IDE Channel, sharing the same IDE cable. There are typically two IDE Channels (Primary and Secondary) on one motherboard for a total of four IDE devices allowed per system. For example, if you have a HD and a CD-ROM at the present time, you can add two more hard drives or one more hard drive and an IDE backup device. If a new hard drive is being installed onto the same Channel as the old one, make sure the original drive is set to Master and the new hard drive is set to Slave or vice versa, depending on which will be the bootable drive. If two hard drives use separate cables, both may be set as Masters.

Always use your bootable hard drive where your operating system is installed as Master on the Primary channel. Avoid sharing the IDE cable if you can. If a new hard drive is added to an old one, chances are the new one is faster and has more capacity than the older one. We suggest to use the new one as the bootable drive and the old one as a back up. After all, hard drives are much faster than the tape drives as a backup. The chance for two hard drives to go bad at the same time is very small.

The limitations described above do not apply to SCSI devices. For instance, up to seven SCSI devices can be used for the same SCSI Channel (controller) and no Master/Slave jump setting is necessary.

Hard drives must be partitioned and formatted before use. It's like the lanes on a new running field must be marked before athlets are introduced.


1. Power off the computer and remove all cables from the back of the computer.

2. Carefully remove the case screws then remove the case cover.

3. Secure the Hard Drive into the mounting bay using (4) course threaded screws. (Use the hard drive screws. DO NOT use case screws.)

4. Look at the current configuration of the computer to determine if there is an extra IDE port on your current IDE cable(s). If there are only one IDE cable and already two IDE devices, a new IDE cable must be purchased. Plug the new IDE cable into the Secondary IDE channel on the motherboard. (Be careful, watch the polarity. Match the red line on the IDE ribbon cable with Pin 1 of the IDE Channel). If there is one IDE cable with only one IDE device or two IDE cables with three or less IDE devices, there is a spare IDE port.

5. After the drive is secure, plug in the new or spare IDE port to the new hard drive. (Be careful, there is only one way to plug the IDE cable. Red pin closest to the 4-pin Power.)

6. Plug the P4 Power cable into the new hard drive.

7. Carefully put the case cover back onto the case and secure it with the case screws that were previously removed.

8. Plug all required cables into the computer and then power up the system.

9. Enter the Computer CMOS and use the Auto IDE Detection feature and then save the changes made to the CMOS and exit. This will reboot your computer.

10. Your hard drive is ready for use.

4. CD/CDR/DVD INSTALLATION

Setting Jumpers

The mode select jumpers are six straight angle pins located on the rear of the drive. By placing a jumper on the pins, you can select the following functions:

5. GRAPHIC CARD INSTALLATION

Before You Begin
Static electricity can severely damage electronic parts. Take these precautions prior to beginning the Graphics card installation:
	Before installing the Display driver, make sure your Windows® 95/98/2000/ME/XP or NT was installed in VGA mode and functions properly.
	To use an AGP Graphics card with Windows® NT4.0, you may need to re-install NT with Service Pack 5 (SP5) or Service Pack 6 (SP6) before installing the AGP card.
	If you are running Windows® NT4.0, please note that some drivers are not compatible with earlier releases of Windows® NT. Consult your dealer or local support to ensure you have the most recent releases for Windows NT and the drivers.

IMPORTANT Uninstalling Your Existing VGA Driver Remove your existing Display Driver using the Add/Remove Icon in ‘Control Panel’ Shut down your computer Remove your existing video card NOTE: If your system (motherboard) has an onboard Graphics controller, please contact the system vendor on how to properly disable it.

Preparing Your Computer for Installation
Prior to working on your computer, make sure the power of the computer and any attached equipment such as a monitor or printer is turned off. Unplug your computer and remove the cover. Remove your current Graphics card. For systems with ‘On-Board 3D Graphics’, there is no Graphics card to remove. Some systems may require you to disable your ‘On-Board 3D Graphics’. Consult your PC users’ manual or vendor manual on how to properly do this.

	Selecting the Proper Expansion Slot Most computers have a combination of AGP, PCI and ISA expansion slots. All these slots may look similar at first, however you will notice their differences once you examine them more closely. The ISA connectors are black and are the largest of the three types. The AGP slot on your computer motherboard is usually the closest connector to the CPU and is made from a plastic of a contrasting brown color. The PCI connectors are usually located between the AGP and ISA connectors are made from a white plastic, and is the same connector type that most Sound or Modem Cards are connected. If you are still unsure which connectors are AGP and PCI, consult your system manual to help you identify them. Plugging your Graphics card into an incorrect slot could damage the card, your computer, or both. Do not try to force a card into a slot that does not accommodate it, as it is probably the wrong slot. The diagram below should help you in identifying the proper slot.
	Inserting Your Graphics Card Remove the cover for the slot you intend to use and save the screw for the mounting bracket of your new Graphics card. Then, position the Graphics card over the expansion slot that coincides with the type (AGP or PCI) of card purchased. Push the card firmly and evenly until it’s fully seated into the slot. Replace the screw to secure the bracket of the Graphics card to the computer chassis. Replace the cover of your computer.
	Connecting Your Display Plug your Monitor, Flat Panel Display, or your S-Video (TV) cable into the appropriate connector on your Graphics card. All cables MUST be connected before your computer is powered